A splendid spot. I went with three friends last night after reading nothing but rave reviews all over the internet. Don’t be intimidated by venturing into a different area of town. Angela’s is easy to find and a very quick ride from downtown. It’s a bit tricky to park close by (mostly resident), but you’ll be thankful for the walk back to your car after you eat the quantity of food that you ought to. Angela’s seats about 20-25 diners and, understandably, they like to take their time eating. After poking my head in to see what the story was, an older gentleman took my name and approximated that it would take around 25 minutes for a table of four. Having read that Angela’s closes at 9pm I was a bit concerned, but came to the conclusion that this meant they stopped seating at 9 rather than closed the kitchen at 9. So we hung out on the corner until our number was up (the restaurant is in a very residential part of town so you will have nothing to do but hang on the corner). It took a bit longer than expected (45 minutes or so), but when we were seated we were presented with a complimentary order of homemade chips and guacamole in apologies for the wait – unanimously the best guacamole we have had. Indeed, it was the first guacamole one of my fellow diners had ever enjoyed -absurdly creamy with a slight kick of lime and served in the molcajete it was made in.
We started off with several smaller plates (tacos, gorditas, tostadas, etc..) all ranging from $2 – $4 each. The chorizo gorditas with queso fresco won the night in my opinion. A thick and chewy tortilla layered with red or green salsa (the waiter suggested the red because the green wasn’t “as good as usual”) and topped with either chorizo or chicken and chunks of queso fresco. This is not to disparage the taco al pastor or chicken tostada that I had, they were delicious as well. In all honesty, when you go you should have as many things as you can. Suck it up and put yourself in a food coma. It will be worth it, if only in retrospect, since unless you live in Eastie you probably won’t be going back every week.
The one thing you certainly should not miss is the mole (entrees go for around $12-$20). Hard to describe. Just know this: it takes a lot of effort and experience to make this sauce. The chef, Angela Atenco Lopez, cooked professionally in Puebla, according to The Globe, and has channeled all her expertise into this mole. Unfortunately, I don’t know that I can fully appreciate it yet. Right now, it just tastes really good to me, but I think it deserves more than that. It deserves a story, some sort of lore that lifts it to a mystical level. Maybe I’m exaggerating. But it is damn tasty. The meat it came over was a bit dry, but I didn’t particularly care. I finished off with a chocolate bread pudding. The gratuitous addition of an anglo dessert might compromise Angela’s authenticity to the observer, but it was yummy, so lay off. Next time I’ll have the flan.
I ordered strictly off the menu this time, but a chalkboard above the kitchen details daily specials and I’ll be sure to dig into those on the next visit. It’s hard to imagine anyone not enjoying their meal at Angela’s, and considering the cost, it’s one of the best values in the area that I know of. Go often.