There’s something odd about the aesthetic of Ginger Park. The interior, inherited from its predecessor Banq, seems like a combination of an underground sand bunker and an ear canal. Like when Han Solo landed the Milennium Falcon in the belly of the space slug, you get the feeling that at any moment the restaurant could come alive and swallow you up. If it did, you’d be consumed along with some occasionally very tasty and otherwise just kind of tasty asian food. The menu is fairly long, ensuring there will be at least a few things for everyone. And in keeping with the Boston area trend away from three course meals and towards small plates (or, in my case, 5 course meals), Ginger Park encourages you to order a spattering of dishes to share with your friends. This trend irks me for several reasons. First, this can lead to occasionally awkward group ordering should hunger not be equally distributed amongst your party. Erring on the side of too much food solves this problem, but is that really a position I want to be put in? Second, if group dining and sharing is the idea then offer some dishes that deserve to be shared – not plates where you have to ask how many dumplings come with an order to ensure everyone gets a bite. Specials that cater to groups of 4,6, 8 people. Something akin to the Bo Ssam at Momofuku in New York would not only be a more appropriate group dish but also be a unique addition to Boston restaurants more generally. I digress.
The food at Ginger Park is good. How good? Not good enough to persuade me to regularly pay twice the amount I would in Chinatown or Allston for dishes with the same flavors but that are less aesthetically pleasing. But good enough to make me go back when I want to accompany those flavors with good drinks and a nice outfit. Here’s what we got:
The only disappointment was the whole fish. Not a lot of meat on them bones. The “mandarin” pancakes were essentially scallion pancakes, and a mediocre version at that. They didn’t compare to Gourmet Dumpling House. I appreciated the kitchen’s willingness to drop a raw egg on the bi bim bap – not too many restaurants would risk offending the squeamish with that move. Both rice dishes and the noodle dish were quite tasty.
While there doesn’t seem to be anything particularly new or exciting about the food at Ginger Park, we were happy with our meal and it does seem to fill a niche in Boston. Asian food tends to come in a casual if not downright dirty atmosphere (not counting Japanese which lends itself quite nicely to an upscale environment, as evidence by O Ya, Oishii, etc..). While there are a couple places that try to defy the stereotype (PF Chang’s? maybe Ginger Exchange?) Ginger Park is to my knowledge the only restaurant serving this kind of food in a trendy atmosphere. One where you might take a date, or meet with co-workers after a long day in your suits. I think that will keep it alive, and makes it worth a visit when that’s what you’re looking for.